Why use a coach?
To train better, to avoid injury and stay healthy, to maximize your time, to learn the science of climbing, to get an outside perspective, to overcome a plateau.
Can you help outdoors? In comps?
I can certainly help you identify weaknesses, get stronger, last longer, and climb better. But non-competitive indoor climbing is my specialty, so if your personal hurdles are very outdoor-specific (e.g. you need to up your crack climbing technique) or comp-specific (you suck at triple paddle dynos) I'll recommend you someone else.
I climb harder grades than you do. Can you help me?
Do Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret use coaches? 😉
"Jon has become an indispensable help for my climbing progress. With his fun, hands-on and deep approach, he has contributed heavily to my success as a climber. Jon’s reflections have made a huge impact on topping routes I previously considered out of my league."
Power Company Climbing
"Jon really digs into the subtleties and he takes this great approach to his climbing of trying to break things down, trying to become a better climber rather than just a stronger climber."
How I Can Help
A long-time writer, in midlife I studied for and passed the exam to become a Certified Sport and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS) and I'm currently working toward a master's degree in sports coaching.
Why? I was the kid picked last for every team. Who thought he was permanently weak, winded, uncoordinated, and unhealthy. Ten years ago, at the age of thirty-seven, I wandered into a climbing gym. Where no one cared about all that. Where I could play around, get better without even trying to, see proof I’d gotten better, and sometimes do things that at first seemed entirely impossible. I fell in love. I started bouldering and sport climbing one, then two, then three days a week. Along the way, I kept discovering more climbing could do for me. I got friends, motivation to eat and sleep better, a body that works and looks better, not to mention inexpensive therapy!
My passion for climbing has never disappeared, but after five years certain things started to go sideways. My grade progress stagnated, my playfulness declined, and my haphazard attempts to push past all that only got me injured. So I hired a coach, who’s been nudging me in the right direction for four years now. His exercises hardly feel like work, and he customizes them to my own personal climbing roller coaster.
This year, for the first time I sent the hardest grade in both of the gyms I frequent here in Porto, Portugal, and hit a new PR on the Kilter Board (V8). More importantly, I’m healthier and having more fun than ever. Inspired by my coach’s example, I resolved to start coaching as well. And to learn as much as I can about the science of climbing—about its physiology, biomechanics, psychology, and nutrition.
Whether you need tips on your projects, an annual plan, or help locating your missing motivation. I can support you, and I can't wait to get started.